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A forecast looks like a wall of numbers until you know which four matter. Swell size, swell period, wind, and tide will tell you almost...

A wave in beginner conditions usually releases quickly. Fear stretches those moments into something much longer, and the tension it creates is what leaves you...

Falling is not the exception in surfing; it is the default. Beginners fall on most waves, and experienced surfers fall on the ones worth trying....

A rip current does not pull you under. It is a narrow band of water moving back out to sea, which is why a calm-looking...

Everyone makes similar mistakes when they start surfing. That is reassuring because the solutions are already known, and none of them requires natural talent. The...

Standing up is the first goal. Then you stand up, ride straight at the beach, and the wave closes out behind you. Learning how to...